i track consumer prices. i am the nyc food critic for bloomberg news. i am ryan sutton.
Catching Elephant is a theme by Andy Taylor
Truffle Hawker: Ai Fiori.
Cost: $115 supplement to the $89, four-course prix-fixe, or $125 a la carte.
Weight: You get your bad self 7 grams of white truffles shaved tableside onto buttered tagliatelle
The Value Equation: “This truffle season, because the past summer and fall were very warm, truffles have been extremely subpar. Michael [White] is just starting to see truffles that are up to his standards. We have been using them very inconsistently and have sold them on a minimal basis, only when the product is decent - unlike last year when everything was wonderful.” (Olivia Young, Altamarea Group Spokeswoman).
Why Are Truffles Worth The Splurge? “[Ai Fiori’s] French-Italian Riviera-based cuisine is an inviting canvas for the addition of such a bold, earthy flavor. With such limited availability, truffles are an ideal complement to the celebratory nature of the season.” (Chef Chris Jaeckle).
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